Marissa Fessenden, McClatchy Newspapers, Published January 06 2012
Surfer scientists: Women break barriers in sport, professions
Most surfers, the good ones, are intimately tuned to their environment, monitoring the swell and searching for the best waves. Novak’s attention goes beyond that. She is a graduate student at Moss Landing Marine Lab who this winter earned a master’s in physical oceanography from Cal State Monterey Bay.
“I’m picking off pieces of algae and rubbing them in my fingers,” she said. “Just constantly noticing my surroundings, constantly in that science brain because that’s just a part of who I am.”
That science brain makes Novak rare among surfers. But couple that with her gender and she’s even more unusual.
Both surfing and science are historically male-dominated scenes. So many surfer-scientist women must push against misconceptions and stereotypes in two key areas of their lives. The pressure that results shapes their lives and their attitudes.
“I felt like I was representing all women,” the 28-year-old Novak said, recalling the nervousness she felt learning the ropes as a marine sciences researcher and the only woman in a group of technicians securing heavy instruments to moorings. “I thought, I better be able to ‘man-up’ to these physical requirements.”
The feeling of being outnumbered should eventually be a thing of the past for women entering the sciences. Women earned 40 percent of doctorates in science and engineering in 2006, compared with 8 percent in 1958, according to a report by the National Science Foundation. But they are still underrepresented in academia’s top echelons, holding fewer than a quarter of tenured professorships in science and engineering.
Surfing faces a similar situation. Just fewer than a third of the 2.6 million American surfers are women, according to Board-Trac, a sports market research company.
Still, their numbers at surfing competitions lag behind men. And although more women in recent years have taken up the sport, Novak said, unless she goes out with female friends she is often the only woman at many surf spots.
The relaxed, hang-loose attitude of surfers might not seem to jibe with the rigor and stuffiness of science. But for Novak and other surfer-scientists, that mix gives them a unique life perspective.
“It gives you a cleansing breath,” said Shannon Johnson Williams, a research technician at the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute. “I work at a lab and work at computers all day, so it is kind of a good break to get outside.”
Williams said her adviser lets researchers ride the waves at lunchtime. And she thinks that tolerance might pay off.
“I’ve been puzzling over a problem many times and walked down to the beach,” said Williams, 37, of Santa Cruz, Calif. “I get in the water and after a few minutes think: ‘Oh yeah! I know what’s wrong with that sample. It’s backwards!’ ”
Not all her colleagues approve of the surfer lifestyle. “There’s plenty of academic snobbery,” Williams said. “But they’re just missing out.”
She recalls when she was out in a boat in May 2005, collecting samples of creatures such as mussels, crabs and tube worms living near deep-sea hydrothermal vents in the South Pacific. Collecting those organisms took her hundreds of miles from shore. By checking some of her favorite surf websites via satellite, she found out that a huge storm was headed her way.
Like many surfers, Williams is obsessed with faraway storms that affect the local surf breaks. A gale near Fiji will send waves across thousands of miles of ocean toward the California coast, where surfers await. Websites keep track of these events and give a surf forecast of how high the swell will be.
But this time, Williams wasn’t thinking of heading toward shore and grabbing a board.
“There’s no hiding from these storms when you are that far out,” she said. “I kept telling the captain we’re going to get hammered by this storm and he scoffed at me. ‘We don’t get our forecast from surf websites,’ he said.”
Williams got off the boat before the storm hit but caught up with that doubting captain later in Hawaii when he dropped off samples. He admitted that everyone had been in the bunks during the storm, seasick as waves and wind tossed the ship around.
“He was like: ‘Turns out that website was pretty good,’” said Williams with a laugh.